This is an article I wrote for the December 2013 issue of the Review of Indonesian and Malaysian Affairs (RIMA). Not too heavy or intellectual, being that I was invited to write it for their “letter from the field” section. Many thanks to Prof Virginia Hooker for recommending me, and to Campbell Macknight for accepting her recommendation, and to both of these lovely people and Shane Bolitho for their comments and assistance. Oh and congrats to Shane too, for his photography featured in the front cover of this issue.

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